Rivers aside, I've been doing some work on the appearance of these mountain lego bits.

The shape leaves a lot to be desired at the moment, but I think I've got a workable style.

This is a ring of the same test symbol - testing the map file shades correctly.

Here are the settings I use to generate a reasonably clear map, though the larger the area of the map the larger I go with the number of pixels width and height - up to 6000. Don't worry about the proportions being square. This setup should automatically crop to whatever the proportions of your map are. That's what those two options I have checked at the bottom do.

Profantasy is a most excellent employer - the best I've ever had in all my 57 years :)

They're solid grey, just a bit darker than neutral grey, and because they are mapped symbols I can use an Overlay Blend Mode to make them take up the colour of the terrain.

The blend mode does odd things around the edges if I feather the edge of the symbol, so the EFI after the Blend Mode is to soften the base and help the hill sit into the terrain.

They're relatively simple map files, exported from Blender. I made a material that could mimic a map file and put it on a very simplified 'Landscape' object. The blue part of the map material is a simple blue material that reflects more or less light from the 'BLUE SUN' directly above it. The red part of the material is a radial gradient based on the normals of the object faces, and expressed as an emission, rather than reflected light. That way it stays constant depending on the direction each face is facing, and regardless of the sun.

The grey image is a gradient material that maps only the parts of the ladscape above a certain point.

A little more progress - a few more houses converted from DC to WV

On the progress side (or lack of it today) I've had quite a struggle getting the gradient shading of the map file correct so that the hollows around the dormer look filled with snow, and everything the right size and shape to be the same as the original but with a layer of snow on it. Not sure how all this is going to work when I start combining them, but we'll see in the morning now.

(6 symbol connectivity test using the "bright" version of Title A style)

Similarly, if you want 2.5 foot wide walls you will need to edit the 5ft snap grid (right click the Snap button to do this) and make 4 snap points instead of 2, then draw your room 1.75 ft larger than you want it on the first snap point outside the boundary of the floor space.

Or for 2 ft wide walls you need to use the 5 snap 5 ft grid.

What a huge body of work to leave behind! Besides being a lovely, gentle man he will probably be one of the most prolific fantasy mappers in history.

Yes, I will be doing cliffs. The style should be about the same size, and the same range as the basic MS style without the free monthly stuff to start with.

However, since I've only just finished rendering the full set of mountain and hill models from Blender, that may be a few weeks away yet. First I have to figure out the finer points of the style with the mountains as test guinea pigs. Should there be inking? Should they be generally darker or lighter at the top? How big should they be, and what exact colours should I use? Those kinds of questions. It takes several iterations and redrawing the same thing over and over till it's right. I expect you will all be really bored of seeing slightly different versions of the same few mountains before I'm satisfied they are good.

And then I might dive straight into the structure symbols. One of the weak points of my overland styles is that they never have enough structure symbols, so I want to change that by moving them up the list of priorities because some of that weakness is due to the fact that they usually get left till last.

Although... I might need to do the textures straight after the mountains to establish the colour scheme.