Well, you could scale the png file itself in GIMP or some other bitmap editor and reimport it - ready scaled to be the right size once it's imported.

I really do recommend you opt for the temporary pain of moving your symbol folders and your catalogue files into the Symbols folder and using relative references as you repair the catalogues and map files. Once you've done it on one machine you can copy the resulting folders and catalogues to the other machine and put them in the same place in that Symbols folder. That way, you won't ever have to carry on remaking catalogues every time you sit at the other machine. That would be a pain that will never go away.

LOL! I don't hate you.

If you intend to keep building everything larger and doing more and more maps between the 2 machines it would be best to move the symbol pngs and the catalogue files into the Symbols folder. Otherwise what you do to a map on either machine won't work correctly on the other machine.

Hi Paolo, and welcome to the forum :)

Start by installing CC3+, then install the most recent CC3+ Update, and then all the add-ons in no particular order. Finally, run the most recent update installer again at the end.

Most but not all of the installers are set up to open CC3+ at the end of the installation process. If that is the case please let it do so. However, always close CC3+ down afterwards and never try to install anything with the app open.

If you run into difficulties just shout and we will help.

Incidentally, There's no iPad version - so not that kind of tablet.

I think the white band is the screen. You asked about it on your other current thread and I suggested a solution for it there - the commands contained in this blog by Remy Monsen should help.

...

Making and positioning a grid.

In these example images I have turned the usually invisible white screen object grey to show the extent of the map, and also to illustrate what happens when you use the collar commands.

Make your grid deliberately too large by using the Select points option above the Apply button and place it very approximately in the right place. At this stage you are merely using the map to judge how many hexes you want - a bit like stretching a length of curtain material over a window to see if it will fit. There is no need to worry about accurate placement. Be more concerned that you have enough hexes.

The new grid will have generated its own snap grid, which is useless from our point of view. Next we need to make our own new snap grid and move the drawn grid to match it.

To create a new snap grid right click the Grid button and select New.

Pick 2D Hexagonal and Continue...

Give your new Grid an appropriate name and adjust the settings to your taste, then OK

Your new snap grid should appear in the drawing window.

To move your drawn grid into alignment with the new snap grid, turn off Snap and turn on Attach. Then use the Move tool and pick up the grid at the corner of one of the hexes. Don't click the outline of the grid, but the side of one of the hexes.

While you have the grid hovering on your cursor mid-move operation, turn Attach off and Snap back on. You should be able to snap the corner of your hex to the right position according to the newly generated snap grid.

So the drawn grid is now in the right position*, but the screen (grey) is too narrow to cover the grid up.

Use COLLARDEL to delete that screen and COLLARAUTO to generate a new one.

The generated screen will be generously proportioned, but it does the job of hiding all those excess hexes really well. It will automatically be white, but I've turned mine grey again in this shot so you can see it.

I hope this helps.

*Please note that I have no idea if I'm showing the correct position as you described it, but only that the drawn hex grid is now perfectly aligned to the new snap grid.