This week in Live Mapping, Ralf will be presenting the latest Cartographer's Annual issue (September 2025: Shessar's Cartouches) and demonstrating how to incorporate these beautiful new symbols into existing maps and styles.

Come along and join the chat with us live on youtube here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxr5kPlCIA0

Or watch it later, either here or on Youtube.

This thread is not monitored during the show, but if you miss it you can ask questions and make comments below.

What with Wyvern wanting Wyverns, and Remy wanting cats, we need a style that is all the pets and monsters.

Have you tried moving the end node of the cave wall section, and while moving it using F9 to snap to the closest node/point on the corridor end?

Or, if you have any experience with the trim tools in the Edit menu, you could try hiding all but the wall sheet(s) and use the tools to trim the ends to each other. Instructions are given in the command line depending on which tool you use.

I was taught (several decades ago now) that you numbered the municipal buildings and churches first, then the features of interest like parks and historic sites and finally the local landmarks - waterfalls, etc. However, given the same map two different cartographers would probably number it quite differently according to their personal opinion on which of the features or which of those groups is more important than the others. So in the end it boils down to what Wyvern said:

I don't think they can, but I might be wrong as I'm no great tech. I just remember things reasonably well.

These are the export formats available through "Save as..." on FT

And these are the formats availabe in save as on CC3

There are a few vector formats at the bottom of both these lists, but none are SVG. Maybe you could find an online converter for one of the AutoCad formats? I've never wanted to do this myself, so I can't tell you how successful that may or may not be.

This week in live mapping, Ralf will be showing off the latest Cartographer's Annual issue: Hand-drawn Dungeons.

Come along and join the chat live to see how it's done or ask questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXASkmlLVgQ

Or watch it any time here on the forum.

This thread is not monitored during the show, but is a place where you can ask questions or discuss things before or after.

It will probably remain a mystery forever now, but at least I know what to suggest trying with anyone else that has a similar problem.

Yes, that's right.

Install the core app first, then the latest update, then all the add ons and annuals, then run the latest update again right at the end.

FT is a separate app. You can install that anytime you please.

You can use letters as well as numbers when you create the grid

I'm a newbie myself as far as understanding how to modify the labels, but I did find a rather laborious way of doing it.

Pick the properties of the grid (this is something I forgot to do, but quite important if you want to regroup everything at the end).

Hide everything else and explode the grid.

Use Change Properties and right click to select all the labels by entity type

Do It, and use the Pick text properties button to set the size.

It's an undoable operation, so if you get the wrong size the first time just undo and try again.

I think it might be quite inconvenient to continue work with the grid exploded like that, so maybe best to regroup the labels and the grid when you are done. If (unlike me) you remembered to pick the grid's properties before you started that's just a simple operation because the grid will end up grouped on the right sheet and layer the moment you regroup it.

I think the white band is the screen. You asked about it on your other current thread and I suggested a solution for it there - the commands contained in this blog by Remy Monsen should help.

...

Making and positioning a grid.

In these example images I have turned the usually invisible white screen object grey to show the extent of the map, and also to illustrate what happens when you use the collar commands.

Make your grid deliberately too large by using the Select points option above the Apply button and place it very approximately in the right place. At this stage you are merely using the map to judge how many hexes you want - a bit like stretching a length of curtain material over a window to see if it will fit. There is no need to worry about accurate placement. Be more concerned that you have enough hexes.

The new grid will have generated its own snap grid, which is useless from our point of view. Next we need to make our own new snap grid and move the drawn grid to match it.

To create a new snap grid right click the Grid button and select New.

Pick 2D Hexagonal and Continue...

Give your new Grid an appropriate name and adjust the settings to your taste, then OK

Your new snap grid should appear in the drawing window.

To move your drawn grid into alignment with the new snap grid, turn off Snap and turn on Attach. Then use the Move tool and pick up the grid at the corner of one of the hexes. Don't click the outline of the grid, but the side of one of the hexes.

While you have the grid hovering on your cursor mid-move operation, turn Attach off and Snap back on. You should be able to snap the corner of your hex to the right position according to the newly generated snap grid.

So the drawn grid is now in the right position*, but the screen (grey) is too narrow to cover the grid up.

Use COLLARDEL to delete that screen and COLLARAUTO to generate a new one.

The generated screen will be generously proportioned, but it does the job of hiding all those excess hexes really well. It will automatically be white, but I've turned mine grey again in this shot so you can see it.

I hope this helps.

*Please note that I have no idea if I'm showing the correct position as you described it, but only that the drawn hex grid is now perfectly aligned to the new snap grid.