We're all generally available to everyone :)

Here's a checklist:

1. Check that the sheet with the parchment on it is on top of everything else (bottom of the sheet list).
2. Make sure you have a Blend Mode sheet effect on that sheet, and set it to Multiply and 100%
3. Type the command DELAYDRAWSYM and set it to 1

That should work, but if it doesn't shout again.

Most fills used in CC3 are seamless. That means the image can be tiled side by side or top and bottom without the join showing. Like this. (I've moved them apart a bit here to show what is meant).

Most fills aren't that big - about 1000 px square, though some I've made are 1500, 2000, 3000 px square. It depends on how much variability you intend to put into it. If you have whole hills in a fill that can be really repetitive if you don't have a bit enough patch to put them in. Consider that if you import a fill that is 2000 px square, to match the resolution with the symbols you have in the map it should really be scaled to about 100 map units, or 100 miles/kilometres (overland symbols are usually 20 px per map unit).

To make a new drawing tool for your fill you could start with one of the two bitmap fill tools already available in the style, select it, then hit the New button and set it up to put your fill on a sheet of its own with its own edge fade, etc.

If you were making a fill of trees like the one above, I've written a short blog about how you can do that in CC3, but I doubt that will be relevant to a dirt fill. https://rpgmaps.profantasy.com/generating-seamless-tiles-part-1-making-seamless-tiles-in-campaign-cartographer/

1" = 5 feet = 1 grid square.

That's a pretty good first map :)

The next stage is to start playing with the sheet effects like the shadows to see what different results you can get. For example, those smaller shadows are a lot sharper than the taller ones on the trees. Maybe they could do with a little more blur on them?

While a glance suggests they are ok, they are a little dated.

You might be interested in this series of videos by Remy Monsen.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLulP-cGMLxw4qTpXfilRHgbDUg8WvrEX2

I would use a mixture. Use the harder style for the rocks, and the softer style for the trees. But that's only what I would do.

Lovely work :)

@Wyvern I sat here for nearly a minute trying to work out where pentagonal igloos came into the equation, and then suddenly realised you were talking about the separate dormer window symbols I pasted into the area where I'm laying out all the symbols I've done so far! LOL! I'm not surprised you weren't sure about them. I didn't even know I'd drawn any igloos...

But... I can eventually - when I've sorted out the conversion of the existing buildings.

@JulianDracos Yes - eventually, though not yet. I've some work to do to get to where I'm inventing new stuff. There is quite a lot of maths involved this time, and I've never been very good at that. For example, it took 3 days to work out the map file for the dormer windows (below). This little graphic, which isn't even visible in the map, but which controls the way the dormer window is lit, is made up of over 20 blended layers of red and blue - all in the name of getting a smooth transition between the dormer window and the rooftop.

I can paint, draw, and even sculpt reasonable looking trees out of wire and modelling clay, but I'm still crap at watercolour.

You, on the other hand, are great at it - even when there are no actual watercolours in sight :)

Well, having settled on a design for the thatched cottages, I now have to decide how to do the tiled cottages.

Where the thatched cottages had a handy herringbone decoration I could use to add interest to the buildings, the tiled ones have nothing other than the tiles. I've already tried using something from the tile texture and it just looked a mess, so I'm wondering now if the lumpy snow look will be enough. The part building at the top of this shot is one of the thatched buildings, while the one at the bottom is a prototype tiled house. It's a bit scruffy around the edges and the chimney hasn't been cut out of the map file so it's too bright, but I do those things when I've finished the design.

The question here is one of the required amount of detail. Does it have enough to make it interesting?