You're welcome, Jim. They will take some care to place properly, though, because these are not a connecting symbol set. They are just symbols that match up if you put them in the right place and the right order. As with walls in Per3 - start at the back and work to the front.

1. I didn't have time, where I was trying to get more special symbols finished ready for the annual
2. Not entirely sure. Maybe you can tell me?

?

I think, for the style you seem to be aiming to achieve, the forests are fine.

I'm not so sure it really needed very much, but that's a matter of personal taste ;)

My goodness! That looks fun. You make me feel really old, even though I'm only a year older than you are. My limit is a quick walk around the village at the moment.

And to think I used to walk almost as far as Ralf does... about 20 years ago now!

Welcome Kevin!

I'm looking forward to seeing your work :)

You just need a constant stippling texture, preferably seamless, and to draw a polygon of it under the floor sheet on a new sheet of it's own. This polygon needs to extend an even width beyond the floor all the way around, and to have an Edge Fade Inner sheet effect on it that is about the same extent in width, so that it fades away from the building.

This might not give you as soft an effect as you are after, but you could always add a very subtle blur to that sheet to get rid of any hard edges and corner marks.

You could use the very same texture on both those sheets Remy just suggested, but just have an Adjust Hue/Saturation sheet effect on the more extensive one at the bottom, to make the texture paler.

That's another way of doing it.

One thing to bear in mind is that 8-bit greyscale is insufficient and leaves steps in the gradients, a bit like that app which uses tiny pixel blocks to create 3D worlds. I'm not sure, though whether you need to set it to 16-bit, or even 32-bit.

Since I am not an expert by any means, and know even less about brushes other than the prescale offset brushes, I think that unless you have several backups saved that you might be able to work forward from again, you might need help from someone like jslayton (Joseph Slayton), or one of the other more seasoned FT3 users.

If this is a world you have re-imported back from Wilbur, having done something like CA155 to it, the only recommendation I can make that might help is to go back to the pre-Wilbur FT3 world and raise the lake using the prescale offset brushes at that stage and take it through the process again without the lake from the beginning.

At any rate, I recommend avoiding the tools that increase or decrease roughness. They are pretty difficult to control and can cause more problems than they solve unless you have an extremely light touch.