This method will give you a great visual grid, but doesn't really sort out a snapping grid. I am assuming that your client isn't going to be using CC3 him or herself, so the CC3 snapping grid is only relevant if you need it to align things in the map with the grid...

• Use the Select Points option both times, and the set snap grid option only for the first grid of smaller hexes. That's the snap grid you will use to align the grids with each other.
• If you draw the 5ft grid first, drawing it to one side of the map a little larger than the map itself, when you draw your 50ft grid over it pick one of the intersections of 3 small hexes as the starting point for the 50ft grid.
• Once you have both grids drawn, group them so they can be moved as one object, switch on Attach, and use the move tool to pick them up by the intersection you want to place at the origin of your map. Then type the coordinates 0,0 and hit enter. This will align the intersection at the origin of your map, which (unless you have moved the frame and screen around by hand) should be the bottom left corner.
• The User snap grid is useless to you now, even though you created it with the small hexes, so right click the Grid button and pick it and delete it.

I've just drawn this one using the "select points" option. I drew the first 5ft grid allowing it to generate a snap grid, then used that snap grid to pick the select points position for the 50ft grid.

Ok!

To make the paper really worth it, the texture had to be very large, so I compensated for the strain on the cache by doing away with all bar 4 of the original textures and making the terrain plain colour polys that are multiplied onto the paper background so they look like they have been painted onto it.

I think I've got the colours fairly similar.

Hi Koshachiy :)

The way FT3 and CC3 interact can be a little perplexing at first. FT3 exports in a range of formats, as you have already seen, but none of these formats correspond with an actual mapping style.

I don't know which style you want to do your CC3 map in, but lets assume you wanted to draw a Mike Schley overland map using your exported coastline. This is how you would do it

1. Open your coastline export and then open a second instance of CC3 by right clicking the CC3 icon and picking CC3+, so you have two maps open at the same time in two CC3 windows.
2. In the new instance create a new overland map in the Mike Schley style.
3. Go back to the coastline map and use Copy from the Edit menu (or CTRL+C). Watch what the command line is doing. Pick the coastline and Do It. You will need to give the app a copy origin. For that you can either click where you like or type coordinates in on your keyboard.
4. When the copy is done (the pink highlight vanishes) go to the window with your new Mike Schley map and use Edit-Paste (or CTRL+V). Then you will need to position the cursor so the coastline is in the right place. Holding down the CTRL key while you move your mouse will allow you to scale the copy before you paste it.
5. Click once only to paste the map, and then hit ESC to get rid of it off your cursor, or you might end up pasting it several times over - each time you click.

Then you will need to use the Change Properties button on the left toolbar to change the properties of the coastline to have a land fill and be on the correct sheet (if it is not already).

I hope that helps :)

EDIT: I should probably warn you that if you have exported the coastline at a very high resolution the paste operation may take a few minutes. CC3 will attempt to refresh the view every time you move the cursor, even if that is only a tiny fraction. Even when the cursor is motionless the outline will continue to refresh in a wave like pattern. Don't be concerned by this. It is perfectly normal and to be expected when there may be several tens of thousands of nodes in active memory on the end of your cursor. CC3 just keeps going, though, and will only freeze up or crash if you get seriously impatient with it.

@Raiko Lovely map. Well done :)

If I use lots of colour keys I sometimes put all the colour key pieces on a separate layer and lock the layer so they can't be selected by accident. I haven't done it with all the maps I've used colour keys in, but those that I have are much easier to edit. It also strikes me that hiding and showing different layers with different sets of colour keys on them could be an easy way of hiding and showing whole rooms or sections of the dungeon during play.