1. Sure. Just put each image on a different sheet and/or layer. Than you can show/hide those sheets/layers as required. If you use sheets, you can also add a transparency effect on one of them so you can see them overlaid on top of each other if that is helpful.

2. If you make your hex grids manually after creating the map instead of in the new map wizard by using Draw -> Hex or square overlay you can hit the Select points button in the dialog to have more control over the placement of the grid. But due to the fact that hexes by their very nature doesn't really line up very well with nice round numbers, it can be a little trial and error getting them exactly as as you want. Keep in mind that coordinates in CC3+ can be entered on the command line when requested, and not just by clicking the mouse, this makes it easier to do precision placement.

Also note that when it comes to hexes within hexes, if you are using a hex mapping style, the hex tiles are designed to snap and size to the hex grid, so you should place the actual grid you are mapping by first, and after making the map add any additional overlay grid. Also remember that hexes doesn't actually fit perfectly within each other, the big hexes will always clip through the middle of the smaller hexes along some of the edges.

3. You can combine styles, but it takes a bit of additional work. Mostly you need to import the fills used by the secondary style. See https://forum.profantasy.com/discussion/comment/99096/#Comment_99096. For the hex symbols themselves however, it is simply a matter of just opening up the appropriate symbol catalog.

4. CC3+ doesn't do any special touchpad handling, it just treats it like a mouse (like most other software), so if it zooms instead it is a result of the signals your touchpad sends to the program. Touchpads are not generally very good for any drawing applications though. But try the PAN command (just type PAN and hit enter on the command line). Pan lets you scroll by clicking two points in your map, and then scrolls the viewport by the amount indicated by the distance between those two points. It may feel a bit foreign at first, but it is a great way to have perfect precision when scrolling.

500

This week I'll entertain you with a short visit to our nearest neighbor in the solar system. I'll be constructing a simple scene of planetary exploration and colonization.

Stream starts Thursday 18th of March at 18:00 CET, click the video below to have YouTube tell you the time in your part of the world and get notifications.

I would separate out the darkest sea contour on it's own sheet here (with the appropriat eeffects). You may notice that it doesn't blend with the next level like the medium one does. This is because edge fade only considers the edges of the total content on a sheet, not each individual entity.

Since this is an atlas map, I can easily make a toggle in the atlas sidebar to hide/show such information as the color bar. This is only applicable to the actual map in the atlas of course, and not the image on the web site which will have to go with one of the approaches.

In addition to what Joe said, also note that your line width (LWIDTH) is set to greater than zero. Drawing tools from DRAWTOOLSP handles all that by themselves, but if you want to draw a filled poly and not just a hollow outline using the basic tools like SPOLY2, you need to manually set it to 0 first.

Like this?

And yes, if it is vector symbol, you should eb able to clone and edit it.

Your map is 250 by 200 feet, so that is 50 by 40 squares. Each square in FG is 50 pixels by default, so should be 2500 by 2000 pixel export if my calculations are right

On my phone right now, so I don't have a detailed guide for you but the easy way to approach this is to use a symbol scaled at 1.0 as a guide when making your new symbol.

When you define a new symbol, CC3 assumes the size you make it in is the default scale.

And scaling it to 1.06 in the symbol manager won't do much, as that just enlarges it by a tiny amount. To set it right you need to scale it to something like 0.22. Remember, scale 1.0 is the size you made it at, so anything above 1 when scaling makes it larger.

I am a bit unsure what you mean here. Do you want to make the map smaller, so it fits snugly around just the house?

If so, there are a couple of ways to do it. One of them is to use File -> Resize Drawing Area and make the map smaller. This will not move the house into position however, so the best approach is to use the :CC2MOVE: command to move the house and all it's components down into the left corner first. Just make sure to select everything so you move it all at once so you retain the relative positioning.

Another option is to start a new map of a smaller size, then use clipboard copy (Edit -> Copy) to copy the house and and components to the new map.

If you need to figure out the size of your house to input into the resize/new map dialogs, you can measure it with Info -> Distance.

Of course, considering the shape of your house, there will always be a bit "outside" in the lower left part.