Yes Jim, the breaks in the lettering are due a type of acne where the same colours in the letters recur in the symbols or fill texture the letters are overlying. This seems to happen when there's any glow on the lettering. You may be able to solve it, should you change your mind, by changing the colour of the lettering (either to the "other" black - colour 17 if you originally used 0, for instance - or one of the darkest greys or browns), or by adding a new Sheet just below the TEXT Sheet, and copying the text onto it, but with no effects active on the new Sheet. In this case though, you may find the paler lettering will be OK on the darker woodland fill, without the need to use dark text letters there.

The third set of Embra "Places" are the Watery Places of Interest, accessed from the appropriate pie-segment of the "Official Guide" map:

One of the aspects that caught my attention from when I originally bought it in the Dover Clip-Art "Celtic Borders on Layout Grids" hardcopy book, was a page of individual knotwork creatures. Here, I simply couldn't resist the two merfolk to add to the borders for the Watery Places, with a neat little criss-cross design just in the frame's corners. As previously, the link-spaces on this schematic drawing are simply labelled extracts from the actual linked maps, with GM notes. The pattern for the layout here was basically the same as for the first of these Places of Interest maps, the Enclosed Places.

Hilly map 5 is Sunset Mound, a rather more characterful hill than some in this set, looking a little like a fish with a small tail, the dominant upland in the area, with a swarm of much smaller, elongated hills clustering nearby:

While the shape for The Fence hedge-lines with its dense corner copses was largely determined by the base-map being a castle, most of the interior for that was ignored, replaced instead with a small focal-point derived from the map's accompanying featured text, that bloodstained Altar of the Dying Swan. Why such a huge, empty space surrounds it, is for GMs to expand upon.

Last of the individual Hilly Places is the segment of the Twilight Market for this set, Fair Market:

The overall nature of this location was decided well in advance - a hilltop funfair and market, with a living-wagon camp nearby for the funfair folk and some of the traders. And another chance to play "spot the castle" as determined by the original base map! Here though, that allows the easy segregation of the funfair from the main part of the market, though there is a degree of mixing as well.

Most of the features are temporary structures, stalls, tents, etc. Even those "walls" are beautifully-crafted wooden lookalikes, with huge tents at the "turret corners", though stout enough to support an array of stalls built into the lower part of the walls, and more along the upper level's walkway. There is a handful of buildings too, in the Inns of Trade area south of the hill and market proper:

Those varicolor, chimneyless, long, wooden buildings, and the small, square ones, from the CA169 Fantasy Town Annual, are amazingly versatile, I've discovered. Change their sizes a little, and an entire array of market stalls appears as if by magic, especially once some of Sue's City Domes from CA144A are added to the mix for circular tents, stall roofs or awnings, including here for a theatre/performance venue (Great Dome) and a Helter-Skelter tower (with a couple of drawn additions), not to mention that square Grand Pavilion. And the wooden long-houses also work nicely as the living-caravans (with the addition of a drawn, little round chimney top for each), as well as more of the square buildings for the stores/privies alongside the vans in the Camp. Plus there are a few more oddities in the written information to go with this drawing, as normal.

@mike robel commented:

It does Mike, but it actually creates a Symbols Along line to do so (assuming you're meaning CA84 1930s Overland Maps). There are detailed instructions on how to set this up in the PDF Mapping Guide that comes with this Annual issue, which is worth carefully reading and following, to get the best from this style.

Map Units are simply what CC3+ recognises as the number to be used for the size-ratio of the area of your map. For an overland map, the default is that CC3+ calls 1 Map Unit 1 Mile (or 1 Kilometre if you opt for metric). This has nothing at all to do with what physical size anything will be in whatever final printouts you choose to do.

You simply draw your map to the correct ground scale and size using only Map Units (so ONLY Miles or Kilometres; forget the "inches" thing; forget the "scale ratio" thing - at this stage they're irrelevant), including any hexes, so the hex has the correct scale-size for the map as you're drawing it. If the hex has to represent an area 100 metres from flat side to flat side, say, you can check that the distance across it is exactly 100 metres using the drop-down menu's "Info - Distance" option.

If you're tracing an imported map image, make sure that's correctly scaled in the same way before you start copying it, so the scale CC3+ is using is exactly the same as that on the map image you're copying.

Once you've finished mapping, you can then export an image of whatever size and resolution you need for your final printout using the drop-down menu's "File - Save As..." option. This is the point you can finally switch to thinking about what inch-size you'd like your hexes to be; just don't worry about it before this point. At all!

Simplest way for this is probably to choose one of the "Rectangular section" graphic image export options, PNG or JPG, say, as the dialogue box allows you to set the size of your export by width and height in either pixels (and you can set the pixels per inch or per centimetre at the same time too) or physical dimensions (again, inches or centimetres). Then just select which area you want to export from your CC3+ map. If you've set your snap grid correctly, you can just use that to help draw the area you want.

If you need the hexes to be a specific physical size on the final print graphic, say 1 inch from flat side to flat side, and there are 20 columns of hexes across either the width or height of the map that fit flat-side to flat-side, it's clear you need one of those dimensions to be 20 inches. The other has to fit the hex width, which is usually around 1.15 times the flat-flat size, thus about 1.15 inches per hex, times however many columns/rows of hexes in the area you need the graphic to be.

Remember, what you're drawing in CC3+ is a map, NOT a hex-board printable for gaming on. Only the final exported graphic - which you can always resize precisely in a separate graphics-manipulation program, if you're happier using that - is where you need to worry about what inch-size what feature is meant to be.

Of course, Sue.

You should never ask the Internet and expect anything other than a resounding "Yes" to any question though 😁

Not sure if I'm interpreting what you're intending here correctly, but if the paler, sandy coloured coastal strip is meant to represent an extensive, low-lying beach, and the fractal lines are the actual high vertical cliffs, it might be useful to use the cliff lines as the coast, and make the seaward edge of the beach have a less strong outer effects line. If it's a beach, after all, it must be submerged by the tide in part at least some of the time, whereas the cliffs would form the actual coastal barrier.

Good-looking map!

My immediate thought beyond that is that some of the broader rivers don't appear quite right. In places where they merge, there's often a patch of darker blue in them which makes them seem a little disjointed. I suspect that may be because the inner glow effect on the rivers sheet needs tweaking to be a little larger, perhaps (it may be something else, as this isn't a style I've used much, or very recently, however).

Also, there's the common problem with river lines where they meet the coast, that they don't match up properly with the coastline, and can seem to run into the sea, with a colour mismatch. Sometimes you can adjust the final node on the river line to match better with the coastline, though sometimes not. One alternative is to add a small polygonal patch of the appropriate sea fill texture over the end of the river line, although even that sometimes doesn't work as well as you might wish.

A further alternative is to set up the land sheet with a Color Key Effect, which effectively "cuts out" the rivers instead of superimposing lines on top, so essentially the rivers become long sea inlets instead. The downside is you have to draw the rivers on the land sheet as well, and in a solid fill of a single colour (by default, this is Colour 6, bright pink). You can though make your rivers look a lot more natural that way, especially if you draw them as polygons instead of lines (this can be a bit tedious for long rivers, however, as you have to draw both banks), or add polygons to disguise where river lines of different widths meet (so the main river line can vary in thickness along its length in a more "realistic" manner than a single line width will allow.

Yeah, it's a fine line. Or indeed several fine lines. With islands strung along them. 😎

Time needed to map a city? OK, working only as and when able, not to deadlines or for money, but the earliest file-date I have connected to my Embra City mapping for the Community Atlas is 7 July 2021, and the final versions of the last maps were submitted for the Atlas on 4 May 2022. And yes, not a standard city by any means, but of comparable detail to some certainly, and with full notes for every individual map and drawing also provided, so not far short of ten months in total (59 maps/drawings).

Creating cities - actually ANY settlements - are not "quick" or "minor" tasks.