
Wyvern
Wyvern
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I Can't Buy Campaign Cartographer And Other Such Products
You should though check your card provider's terms and conditions before carrying out the transaction, as you may find there's a small extra fee to convert the currency (about 3% of the transaction value is common, though not universal). Like Loopysue, I'm in the UK, but have carried out transactions this way for some years for US, Canadian and New Zealand Dollars and Euros, for instance, and the transactions have always been pretty straightforward.
Also, if you're concerned, you can pay through PayPal (even if you don't have a PayPal account), and that shows you exactly how much you'll be paying in your own currency, including the conversion fee (and your card provider shouldn't charge you any extra).
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CC4 Overland Development Thread
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CC4 Overland Development Thread
The Displacement effect does add a little more (if loose!) reality to the drawing style, and people can always turn it off, if their road lines need to be more traditional, linear route-markers (which is how roads are shown on most maps at this kind of large-scale regional area, after all). Will rivers enjoy a similar treatment?
Textures are looking good. The snow might be a tad too blue and bland overall, though this is tricky, given large-scale snow/ice-fields tend not to look quite this pristine anyway. A couple of the taller mountains also seem to have a dark blue baseline that looks a trifle odd against the snow at the Forum image scaling, but looking closer, those are probably glacier-ends, I think.
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How to use the Ball Filter?
Real-world observatory domes aren't "pure" spheres (nor are they transparent, but appreciate this is for a fantasy setting!), and are often made up of either individual smaller flat pieces - such as a geodesic dome - or curved, commonly into parts of a hemispherical gyre. Modern methods allow the construction of larger curved dome areas (using, e.g., fibreglass), but in all cases, there needs to be a segment of the dome that can open, either as a slot from apex to base of the dome, or where part of the dome can be removed/slid away, because the whole point of the dome is to protect the viewing equipment inside it from the weather, including temperature variations, both when in use and when not.
Consequently, the final red-roofed structure in your first posting's image is probably closer to a genuine observatory dome overall than anything else. You could even make the joins between segments more obvious, and you could add a rectangular panel for the viewing slit in the dome (because these don't narrow towards the dome's top - the instrument inside still needs the same viewing width for the slit to work). However, this really depends on what the observatory is used for - a transparent roof suggests something unusual inside, for instance.
Something you could try, based on the standard CD3 house roof options, is simply to increase the number of panels involved, since if you create more roof panels, the whole starts to look more rounded-circular, and loses its angular shape. Appreciate you're doing this in DD3 instead, but the principle holds - rotated copy by a specific small angle once you have your initial slim roof segment drawn. I've done that in CD3 drawings before now, to get a conical roof, for instance. If you're unsure what size of roof segment might work better, try some experiments using the CD3 drawing tools first.
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Tracing an existing map on paper or a image file.
Before you import the image file you want to trace to your CC3+ drawing, make sure you have a copy of the image file in the same folder as your CC3+ map. If you don't do this, you may well end up with a big red cross where your image file should be the next time you open it, because CC3+ can't find it any more.
There are other ways to avoid this happening, but keeping the files in the same folder is by far the easiest to tell you about quickly here.
I do this all the time, and it becomes second nature after only a short time; import, rescale, and get mapping!