Actually, I wasn't talking about the grid at all, but the scalebar, which is still more or less unreadable, because it's set on top of the mountains. If it was placed on the plain-texture open land, it would be easier to read, to see how it relates to the grid size.

When you're using a grid like this, it's really important that the scalebar shows what size the grid is, especially because the grid isn't covering the whole map. This is difficult to tell currently also on both the Zaras Lake and Jibarut maps.

And on the same topic still, the As Sutat map needs some sort of scale adding!

On this As Sutat map as well, there seem to be several flat animals in the NE quarter, towards the lower left of the "Al Diqaq" label. They probably need some shadows adding, I think. Unless of course they really are meant to be flat to the surface - the carpet sheep of As Sutat, perhaps? 😉

They're good looking maps, don't get me wrong; they just need a little tweaking here and there 😊

But if the H P Lovecraft Historical Society do another boxed set of props to go with it... 😏🤑

Of course, Sue.

You should never ask the Internet and expect anything other than a resounding "Yes" to any question though 😁

The only real use I've ever made of iso maps is as visual aids, although a lot of the earliest were really illustrations of buildings/locations, not true maps anyway, and done in a fully artistic style. The first actual iso maps I recall were from the original Castle Ravenloft maps from TSR, which also included some iso drawings. This concept followed through into the original "Ravenloft - Realm of Terror" boxed set, which had both maps and building diagrams done in an iso projection, as well as more traditional top-down maps. That would be in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

I really wouldn't want to use these as tabletop battlemaps though, as the whole point of those is to show exactly where everyone is, and as iso isn't the easiest projection on which to visualise such things, I always found it better to avoid that.

This is all from many years ago though, and only as in-person visual aids, so things, and people's expectations, may have moved on. I know some of the VTT set-ups allow you to visualise layouts in a mobile fashion, almost like real-world settings, so anything from top-down to side-on, or even from below, and that can be useful for helping people visualise what's on walls or shelves and in cabinets, for instance, as well as judge angles of slopes better. That though only really works if you're either online, or have a large enough screen that people at a table can all see equally what you're trying to show.

Like the eagle heading home in the night version now!

Given that deer tend towards the crepuscular, they'd probably be fine in the lower (brighter) night scene too; maybe not actually so much on the daytime one, though as winter days in the north are so short anyway, this is likely moot.

Shadows are much improved now, I think.

Might be worth trying a boldface version of the snowflake dingbat, just to make it stand out a little more (on the day scene especially). Not sure that'll work though, as boldface sometimes reduces the clarity of finer lines on characters too.

Must admit, I'd thought it was probably for a holiday-themed project of some kind (the title's the giveaway 😉!).

Good-looking map!

My immediate thought beyond that is that some of the broader rivers don't appear quite right. In places where they merge, there's often a patch of darker blue in them which makes them seem a little disjointed. I suspect that may be because the inner glow effect on the rivers sheet needs tweaking to be a little larger, perhaps (it may be something else, as this isn't a style I've used much, or very recently, however).

Also, there's the common problem with river lines where they meet the coast, that they don't match up properly with the coastline, and can seem to run into the sea, with a colour mismatch. Sometimes you can adjust the final node on the river line to match better with the coastline, though sometimes not. One alternative is to add a small polygonal patch of the appropriate sea fill texture over the end of the river line, although even that sometimes doesn't work as well as you might wish.

A further alternative is to set up the land sheet with a Color Key Effect, which effectively "cuts out" the rivers instead of superimposing lines on top, so essentially the rivers become long sea inlets instead. The downside is you have to draw the rivers on the land sheet as well, and in a solid fill of a single colour (by default, this is Colour 6, bright pink). You can though make your rivers look a lot more natural that way, especially if you draw them as polygons instead of lines (this can be a bit tedious for long rivers, however, as you have to draw both banks), or add polygons to disguise where river lines of different widths meet (so the main river line can vary in thickness along its length in a more "realistic" manner than a single line width will allow.

Not sure if I'm interpreting what you're intending here correctly, but if the paler, sandy coloured coastal strip is meant to represent an extensive, low-lying beach, and the fractal lines are the actual high vertical cliffs, it might be useful to use the cliff lines as the coast, and make the seaward edge of the beach have a less strong outer effects line. If it's a beach, after all, it must be submerged by the tide in part at least some of the time, whereas the cliffs would form the actual coastal barrier.

This used to happen with new sheets you'd created in any map. If you didn't put anything on the sheet, it would be deleted the next time you reopened the map. That was changed in an update a long while back, and while it does solve the problem that if you don't use it immediately, you'll lose it, it does mean most maps now end up with far too many sheets in, because nobody's ever going to remember which sheets haven't been used in a given map. Plus there's always the danger you'll accidentally delete some critical sheet by mistake that has something on you'd forgotten about if you try to do a cleanup manually.

It would be excellent to have the same possibility to remove excess Sheets at the end of a map, just as you can with Layers, currently. Not sure how practical that would be from a programming perspective though.

Wasn't able to get along for yesterday's livestream, so have just been catching-up with the VOD tonight instead. SS6 looking good, and I suspect those circled key numbers especially are going to see a lot of use beyond this set alone!

However, I was shocked to see the Hobbit village didn't make everyone in chat smial 😉...

If Erdan Worlds won't let you do what you want with the mapping, it's probably best to look around for something that will. 13th Age might be somewhat closer to that example map whose style you want to replicate, for instance as a first suggestion. You're never going to get exact matches for everything, of course (unless the source map's in a style PF already has available that is!), so you need to decide what's most important to preserve, and then work around that.

In terms of the Sheet Effects, like Edge Fade and Edge Fade Inner, or others that may help blend adjacent textures, adjusting the size and strength beyond the presets is always worth trying out. Experimentation is key though, as has been said before re Sheet Effects generally, and trying to advise you "blind" like this isn't really practical. You just need to play around with ideas and see what you think looks good. If you run into specific snags, someone here may well be able to assist.

You might also want to try varying the edges of adjacent terrains, so they're not always simple linear features - not saying to use fractals here, just add some extra curves and variations by-hand (like a weak "jigsaw piece" join, perhaps), nothing very finely-detailed. With a strong enough Effect, you'll not see much of the original shape, and it may help break-up the linear junction a bit more.

The blending in this sample map looks like it could work by adding rounded patches of one of the greens over the top of the other, with a strong Edge Fade Inner Effect on the patches Sheet, for instance.