Understanding Some of cc3+'s finer points.

I think I mentioned this before, in another thread, but I'm about to embark on a journey that is going to take me in a COMPLETELY new direction.

My friend has come to me, and is in the process of purchasing some land off of the North Carolina coast. It's not exactly beach front property, as it's actually located on one of the sounds, near the Outter Banks, if anyone gets the reference.

Anyway, he's seen what I've been doing with cc3+, and he asked me, recently, if I could design structures with it. Point of fact, I've already created structures with it and told him so... I even showed him my tavern. But then he asked if I could design real life structures. I told him I couldn't do the plumbing and electrical, but I could do the basic floor plans.

So now I'm designing a house. And while I understand the basic principles... I realize that there are concerns that I've never had to deal with before.. like exact dimensions. Countertops, cabinets, closets and such.

I figured the grid, snap option would REALLY help me here.... But I don't actually understand how it works. Or if there are other features in cc3+ that will go me more. Find example, I may need to represent curved countertops...that are straight in the back to fit against a wall. Among other things. So I have so.e more questions.

How does the grid snap work? Is it possible to set up a grid snap according g to your particular needs? How would I go about setting g one up, and more importantly, how do I determine what ki d of set up I need?

I know I need to research dimensions for certain things, like stoves, refrigerators, sinks, toilets, tubs/showers, washers and dryers. The house will probably be on stilts, and I can't even begin to fathom how to do that! Even with perspectives!

Anyway, any explanations would be most helpful, and appreciated!

Comments

  • LoopysueLoopysue ProFantasy 🖼️ 40 images Cartographer
    I'd better leave the description of the Grid snap thing to someone who knows what they are talking about, but you can bevel a polygon to create the curve, and bury the back of it in the wall. If you need one that's free standing, use two polygons on adjacent sheets - one for the bevelled edge, and the other to cover the undesired bevel (in other words just a bit smaller and showing the bevelled edge that you want of the one below).

    Stilts?!! They would need to be designed by the architects, since they are the ones who understand the material strengths and stresses involved, especially if the ground underneath is soft - in which case a certain amount of pile driving might be involved, which really is a job that only an engineer with a geodetic survey can properly be trusted with. This friend of yours seems to be asking a heck of a lot. You can't just cross a few timbers and hope for the best. I hope he knows that! When they developed the grounds of a hotel across the road from me on a piece of ordinary waste ground a survey revealed an ancient lake bed, and piles were driven down to the clay bottom of that lake - all forty feet of peat and sand sitting on top of it. My flat shook like a jelly for six weeks, and the poor wildlife! I found a frog siting in the middle of my living room floor one morning, looking very distressed. I also had a swarm of brown rats run through the house - disturbed by the work! Most unpleasant, but... poor little things - terrified witless!

    Your best bet is just to design the interior and let the architects and engineers take care of the rest. In the UK the standard breeze block (used for internal separation walls, and the inner skin of the outside wall) is 4 inches thick. The cavity is another 2-4 inches and the outside brick is another 4, making a total of 10-12 inches for an outside wall, and 4 inches for an inside wall (one block width). Of course, this is only the UK, and not the US. You probably do everything completely different just for the hell of it LOL :)
  • Do you have the Tome? Check page 198-199 for Floorplans Snap Grid, etc
  • edited August 2016
    Ummm...

    Once you read how to set up the grid I would head on down to the Code Engineer/Building inspector for where ever this is and start by finding out if there are any considerations on the size of the structure, either minimum or maximum, for the land that has been purchased. It helps to know any limits before you start.

    I would also find out what your friend's budget is and then what the average cost per square foot is to build in that area, taking into consideration the type of materials that are to be used. This way you won't design a mansion when he/she can only afford a bungalow.

    Finally, you and your friend will have to decide if this is just for ideas or if it to serve for the basis of the blueprints. If it is to serve as more than a fun dream project, you will want to find out if there are any local building codes for basic plumbing placement, HVAC placement, etc. You may not be laying out the architectural blueprints, but you'll want to know where the water heater, furnace/ac unit will go.

    These are really just some random thoughts that may or may not be useful to you. I'm sure there are others that will have suggestions more helpful than this.

    Edited to add: Here is a site that has simple tutorials that will guide you along the process.
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