map outlines

I have used CC3 for many years to make maps for a long running Napoleonic campaign in Germany and Spain.

The campaign is designed to provide interesting wargames. All of the maps are designed from the wargames table up. On the tactical maps each square is a wargames table scenic square. On the strategic maps each square is a wargames table.

The maps work really well, but do not look very realistic. This is mostly because I am not very skilfull at drawing coast outlines.

If I could transfer an outline of Europe into CC3 this would solve my problem.

Is this possible?

If so how?

regards

Paul
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Comments

  • MonsenMonsen Administrator 🖼️ 81 images Cartographer
    edited October 2015
    There are multiple options, depending on what products you own, and what detail level you need.

    There are a couple of europe maps in the gallery.
    You can use a real-world dataset with Fractal Terrains 3 and export the coastline from there
    The World War II Interactive Atlas contains various Europe maps.
    The Cartographer's Annual 2012 contains an issue with Real World maps.
    You could also just import a real map as an image, and trace over it in CC3.
  • The outline of europe in the gallery is what I am looking for
    But I only need Germany, Italy and Spain
    Is it possible to "cut and past" a section the whole map?

    regards

    Paul
  • Jay_NOLAJay_NOLA Traveler
    edited October 2015
    You can do a cut and past selection of part a map into another map to make map of just one area of regional map. The Tome of Ultimate mapping has a good tutorial on doing this.

    Also since you mentioned a Napoleonic campaign on of the Annuals dealt with Napoleonic Battle Maps which may be of some interest to you.
  • MonsenMonsen Administrator 🖼️ 81 images Cartographer
    If you don't have the tome, you can basically cut out the line you are looking for using CC3's CUT command to remove the parts you don't want, or use BREAK to create breaks in the line, then ERASE those you don't need.
  • Personally I would import an image and trace it. I find this takes very little time, and you can get exactly the area you need.
  • In fact, in the 20 minutes between my posts I imported this image into CC3+:

    image

    and traced it:

    image

    So it's not that tough!
  • Blackadder 3

    That is exactly what I am looking for.

    Can I do that with CC3 or do I have to get CC3+?

    Where did you get the original image from?
  • You can trace with either version of the game. It's an invaluable tool. The way to do this is explained in the "CC3 Essentials" pdf on page 34-35 (under "Tracing Existing Paper Maps"). If you have trouble with this, let me know and I'll explain it in more detail. I do it all the time.

    I just found a random map of Europe with a quick Google image search, and cropped it to the area you specified. I'm sure you can find a much better example. Good luck!
  • Blackadder3

    Thanks for the reference. I have downloaded the CC3 Essentials and read page 34-35. Unfortunately it does not make much sense to me. Although I have used CC3 for quite a few years, I have never mastered it. I just draw simple maps.

    My requirement for an outline map of europe is a "one off". What I would really like to do is just copy the one you have shown above.

    Could you give me simple instructions of how I can copy it from this forum please?
  • You can copy what I posted above by right-clicking and "save image as". But it's just a BMP and not a very good one. You can't use it directly in CC3.

    When I get home this evening, I'll make something similar in CC3 this evening and post the FCW file for you. Then you can open it in CC3 and add whatever you want to it. I'll do this as a favor even though I strongly believe you would benefit more from learning to do it yourself!

    What style do you want it in? I have CC3, SS1, and all the annuals, so any style in any of those is fine. It will need to be one you have yourself to work for you.
  • Blackadder3

    Thanks for the offer. I need to be able to use it in CC3 so that I can put on towns and perhaps rivers.

    I have CC3, but not sure what SS1 is.

    Not sure about style, it looks fine above.

    I am sure that you are right that it would be better if I learned how to do it myself. However I doubt that I could do so.

    Many thanks for your help
  • MonsenMonsen Administrator 🖼️ 81 images Cartographer
    Posted By: thistlebarrowI am sure that you are right that it would be better if I learned how to do it myself. However I doubt that I could do so.
    I recommend that you pick up the CC3 User Manual and work your way through it. The tutorials in it is designed to learn you all of these features. I recommend reading it from start to finish though, it can be difficult to just jump in to a specific topic if you don't have a reasonable understanding of everything up to that point.
  • DogtagDogtag Moderator, Betatester Traveler
    I'll add a +1 to that.

    CC3 is a powerful program and it can be intimidating when viewed as a whole, but the User Manual tutorials walk you through it bit by bit. Each tuturial is a nicely-manageable chunk that builds on the ones before it. You can have fun, make some nice maps, and not even realize you're learning! Win-win!

    Typically, the User Manual is installed when you install CC3. You should be able to click Help and select User Manual from the menu. If not, you can download it from the same place you downloaded the Essentials guide.

    ~Dogtag
  • Blackadder23Blackadder23 Traveler
    edited October 2015
    Okay, I just used the default CC3 Overland style so you wouldn't have compatibility issues. Here's what it looks like with effects on:

    image

    And the save file you can open with CC3:

    Western Europe

    Enjoy!
  • Blackadder3

    Thanks very much for the map, it is just what I was looking for.

    Its kind of you to take the trouble.

    Having read your, and other, comments here on the forum I feel quite guilty that I have not mastered Profantasy enough to be able to do this type of task myself. It is not being lazy, its just that I find it very difficult to understand complicated written instructions.

    When I first received Profantasy I did try to read and understand the instruction booklet. To be honest I found it very complicated and difficult to understand. For me it was like a novice reading a car maintance book.

    The problem, again for me, is that you have to master so much background beore you can actually do things. My salvation was finding a You Tube which explained getting started.

    I am very pleased with Profantasy, and it has greatly improved my campaign maps. But the maps are a means to an end, not the end itself.

    I appreciate that to those who have mastered the programme it may seem very easy. But I doubt if I am the only one who has failed to grasp more than the basics.

    Thanks again for your help
  • Making maps comes with practice. Don't let the comments on how we have done things get you down. We had to learn mapping as well.
  • It takes time and practice like Jim said.

    Plus, even if you have been using the software for along time it is easy to forget how to do stuff on it.

    I usually have to go through the basic tutorials about once a year as I often forget how to do something simple with the program.

    Have you had chance to check out the various tutorial videos on youtube. I found watching Joseph Sweeney's videos much better than the manual to help in leaning to use the program than the manual.
  • Blackadder23Blackadder23 Traveler
    edited October 2015
    By no means should you feel guilty. We're talking about something pretty frivolous in the grand scheme of things. While I think you would ultimately find it rewarding to learn how to use CC3 well, you may feel otherwise. And if so, you shouldn't spend the time. Life is too short!

    (If you DO decide to learn more about using CC3, I definitely agree that you should watch the tutorial videos. SEEING the program in action is much more useful than reading about it, in my opinion.)
  • DogtagDogtag Moderator, Betatester Traveler
    edited October 2015
    Gah! Absolutely! By no means am I suggesting that you — or anyone — should ever feel bad about not understanding something about CC3 or the other ProFantasy products! Heaven knows I'm still learning!
  • thanks for your positive comments

    I would very much like to be able to do more things with ProFantasy.
    In particular I would like to be able to transfer more maps from the internet

    I did read "The way to do this is explained in the "CC3 Essentials" pdf on page 34-35 (under "Tracing Existing Paper Maps")" as recommended by Blackadder3, but it did not make much sense. It seemed that I needed to know a lot more about CC3 before I could start doing what I actually wanted to do.

    Can anyone direct me to where I should start to make a map similar to the one Blackadder3 was kind enough to do for me.

    Perhaps if I could just follow the steps he took it would make more sense
  • Jay_NOLAJay_NOLA Traveler
    edited November 2015
    I found these tutorial on how to Trace after a quick search that may be of help.

    http://www.cartographersguild.com/showthread.php?t=10196

    http://forum.profantasy.com/comments.php?DiscussionID=2321

    http://forum.profantasy.com/comments.php?DiscussionID=4995

    The CC3 Essentials when I first started to try and learn to use CC3 got confusing in some places when I first read it years ago. I ended up hardly touching CC3 for several months due to getting frustrated in trying to learn how to use it, didn't get into using it mostly until the Joseph Sweeney tutorials. The full user manual is easier to follow and so is the Tome of Ultimate Mapping.
  • Blackadder23Blackadder23 Traveler
    edited October 2015
    If you're still having trouble understanding the process after checking out those tutorials, let me know and I will post detailed step-by-step instructions in plain English with screen shots.
  • Jay Nola
    Thanks for the links. I will certainly check them out and see if I can do a trace

    Like you I was also confused when I first received CC3. I found a couple of youtube tutorials which got me started.
    Since then I have used it a lot, and work on campaign maps most weeks.
    But, as with my computer, I only do the things I learned at the start
    My knowledge has not progressed.

    For example I constantly make new maps, rather than try to cut and paste existing maps
    I am not even sure if you can do such a thing.
    But because I can make a new map in about an hour, I do so rather than try to cut and paste

    But comments on here have made me think again.

    I am not at all sure that I will be able to master CC3, which I do find very difficult to understand
    But at least I will give it a try.
  • Blackadder23

    Thanks for your offer
    I will take you up on it if I find that I am completely stuck
  • Just wanted to thank Jay_NOLA for the tutorial links. Tracing a source map is something I tried at the advice of Linda from Profantasy years ago (her World of Greyhawk interactive map is amazing!) but I hadn't the ability to get it to work out right for me then (or yet!).

    I've a similar problem to thistlebarrow. I've got a 28-year fantasy campaign with a world map I got on 6 hex mapping sheets (the artwork is marvelous... a true shame it wasn't on white paper and was only partially complete... the original artist, whoever he/she was, had real talent... I got it 2nd hand from someone who'd got it at a rummage sale!) was meant to be an extension of and was done in the style of the original World of Greyhawk maps from TSR.

    I've used this map because, incomplete as it is, it was nicer than anything I've ever hand drawn. It provided me with a unique map and that has served me for these 3 decades (along with a lot of players).

    However, that said, I've always wanted a nice, complete digital map which I could hyperlink to and create drill downs and so on. I'm going to give it another try. I've got a fairly massive BMP (I can upscale it as needed) with the 6 pages stitched to use as a basis.

    The two things that always caused me grief in getting started:

    a) Tracing. The coastline is long, there are multiple continents, the coasts are not bland curves but have a fair amount of detail, and tracing using a mouse seems pretty imprecise. I think some artists use a CAD drafting tablet. I've never been able to afford one of those or a Bamboo-style tablet to make the point digitization easier for the path of the coastline.

    Question1: I'd love to know if there is a way to do a bunch of partial traces of a coastline and then join them to define and overall coastline within the software?

    b) The scaling. The existing product comes with a hex grid @ 10 leagues (30 miles) to a hex. I want to preserve that but trying to get a hex grid in the software to be the same size and orientation to match the scale of my image with 30 miles in CC2/3's view of things has proven tough. I'd settle for not a complete alignment as long as the hex sizes were right.... (I think either the scan has a slight distortion or the original hexes were not as entirely symetric as one might wish and the alignment in the scans may not be perfect either)

    Anyway, I've thought of starting my own help topic but I wanted to drop in and say thanks for what was posted here that is already some help to me.

    And I hope our maps and games go great, thistlebarrrow.
  • MonsenMonsen Administrator 🖼️ 81 images Cartographer
    a) Yes, you can create individual paths and join them together. CC3 has a Combine Paths [CMB] command for doing this. If you are going this route, I would recommend tracing the coastline using simple fractal paths, and not use the landmass tool. You can change the visuals of the lines once you have drawn all of them and combined them.

    b) You should be able to set up hex grids of any size in CC3, but obviously, they have to be regular. To line them better up with the original grid, you may wish to position it manually using the Set Points button in the grid dialog, instead of filling the whole map.
  • WarEagleWarEagle Newcomer
    edited November 2015
    Just a strange idea I got and tried. And it worked :)
    Take a picture, reduce it as far as you can (gray-scale, remove everything you don't need).
    Now take this image into Inkscape and convert it to a path (Path menu and select Trace Bitmap).
    After this save the image as dxf, Inkscape is capable of doing this.
    This fileformat can be imported into CampaingCartographer.

    The results looks like the image below.

    Now you can join the paths, clean up what is too much in the image and scale it as you like.
  • Posted By: MonsenYou should be able to set up hex grids of any size in CC3, but obviously, they have to be regular. To line them better up with the original grid, you may wish to position it manually using the Set Points button in the grid dialog, instead of filling the whole map.
    I had two concerns:

    One: That my CC3's (CC2 at the time) scale matched that of my paper map scan. That is to say that a the distance represented by the width side-to-side of a hex on the paper map is supposed to be 30 miles in map scale, so I wanted this distance scale preserved (hexes or no on the new map) so that the in-world distances remained and were not suddenly inconsistent with 28 years of game experience.

    I suspect getting this right has to do with:
    The height and width of the scan in pixels and its pixel resolution.
    The height and width of my map and its pixel resolution. (although perhaps this distance would be expressed differently)

    The notion is that with the same pixel density per inch, a certain distance defined as 30 miles on the paper map would correspond to that in the map scale.

    THIS was probably what I was struggling with - the trouble getting the hex grid overtop may have been the way this issue manifested.

    I don't care if the hex alignment is different or even if I have no hex overlay layer at all on the new map. What I care about is that the distance from landmark A to landmark B on my paper map (in miles) remains the same in my electronic map and that the map is scaled and configured in such a way as to make that true.

    Does that make sense?
  • Posted By: WarEagle
    Take a picture, reduce it as far as you can (gray-scale, remove everything you don't need).
    Now take this image into Inkscape and convert it to a path (Path menu and select Trace Bitmap).
    After this save the image as dxf, Inkscape is capable of doing this.
    This fileformat can be imported into CampaingCartographer.
    This is a novel and useful approach.

    I'm using GIMP to clean up the map to create a clear continent/water border (removing all the water and replacing with oxydol white!.

    I'm also using GIMP's spray paint function with a mid-range opacity set for a 'back' paint to do a quick colour in of hexes that were never finished in the original map. Now, that method does (even done as I have) require some care to not block out hexlines or terrain features while still giving some decent colour to the hexes. It wouldn't be a display version, I just want colour everywhere so that the greyscaling goes well.

    I've taken a couple of looks at mid-project greyscale output and it looks promising.

    I pulled down Inkscape and will try to have it trace the path once I finish the clean up on the coastline and figure out what to do about the rivers.

    The rivers are an issue because the original map had ones that looked good (easily visible) on the map. This mean that 'in scale' they could have estuaries/deltas from 5-25 miles wide and along a lot of their tapering length, they'd still in-scale be several miles wide. They're a lot thicker than thin blue lines which some map examples use. They look good, but they aren't represented accurately.

    My options are:
    a) Patch over the deltas along the coast so the coastline appears mostly contigous and then not allow the coastline path to trace the current river borders inland. This would allow me to add smaller blue-line style rivers.
    b) Clean out (whiten) the water in all of these drawn major rivers and they they will de-facto become part of the overall continental coastline. (But I'm not sure what that does to my 'rivers' layer. It's interesting because a river can actually have deltas up to 50-60 miles in width so this almost does rise the level of coastal geography.
    c) I guess a hybrid: Leave the deltas but snub them off so that the rivers inland become the blue line style. That's a compromise.

    Not quite sure how to go with that yet.

    I'll see what I get when I get done the cleanup and run it through inkscape (or if I have an inkscape issue as a new user). If the overall outline looks good, that'll be a lot of handraulic tracing out of the way!

    I'll post back in the next couple of days.
  • MonsenMonsen Administrator 🖼️ 81 images Cartographer
    Posted By: kaladornI don't care if the hex alignment is different or even if I have no hex overlay layer at all on the new map. What I care about is that the distance from landmark A to landmark B on my paper map (in miles) remains the same in my electronic map and that the map is scaled and configured in such a way as to make that true.
    Just scale the scanned image properly before tracing. Use the distance tool (Info -> Distance) to measure between two points on your scanned image, an use a ruler to measure the same distance on your actual paper map (or count hexes), and convert it to miles. Then scale the imported image by the scale factor REAL_DISTANCE/MEASURED_IMPORTED IMAGE_DISTANCE. This should scale the imported image correctly, so that when you start tracing, the distances will be correct.
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