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    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 2nd 2020 edited
     
    I forget to take a picture of how FRED comes out. Here you go.

    As you can see, the effect is not quite as pronounced as it is on the monitor. Edit: Far too subtle for me. I don't know if I will send my map out to a printer for a test

    I'm going to have to experiment a little.

    1. Print sample with white transparent 15%
    2. Print sample with some Brown transparent 15%
    3. Print sample with dark on bottom, light on top
    4. Print sample with light on bottom, dark on top.

    Turkey Trots to Watter GG Where Is RPT Where is Task Force Thirty Four ? RR The World Wonders
      IMG_0100[1].JPG
  1.  
    Well, Sue, looking at the Sagon map thread, I think I need lines around my contours to better distinguish them, I like his forest fill effect, and I think I need to move the base color to the left on the brown row so the upper contours are not so glaringly white OR shade each one like I normally do. Sigh.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2020
     
    Maybe, if you have the annual, you will find all these settings ready to go for you.

    (Not that I recommend starting again!)

    I'm just saying that if you have the annual you can examine how it is all set up so you don't have to do too much extra work yourself ;)
  2.  
    Thanks Sue. That was very helpful. CA85 does not suit my needs because it is in meters and the example maps fit inside a 1km grid square at 1:50000 scale. It also only had 6 contours and a terrible (from my point of view) symbol set.

    I looked at Military Operations and it too cartoonish for my taste, although it has 9 land contours, they are hideous and the symbol set is very limited. I looked at Shaded Relief. More contours, no symbols.

    I looked at Overland Standard, but it embeds the map key in the map Overland Standard, at it floats my boat because that is where the cool symbols are like a modern tactical map uses.

    But alas, it has Fractal Contours. This is good because that has the delete key to remove bad points, so I modified it per your instructions (they made sense, where nothing else I did was clear enough for me, but that might have just been stupidity on my part) and changed fractalize to smooth polygon, but then I lose the ability to delete points. Rat.

    For various other reason, I have typically used Overland Political, but I didn't like the contours, but I was able to modify it so it draws on a desired sheet and color, so I could make 16 contour sheets and tools and then when I have to switch, it just automatically selects the right one. That's cool. I just drew the contours using the smooth or straight poly tool before, so this will be a great added feature for me.

    Now, if I could just move all the symbols I like into Overland Political, that would be really cool. As it is, I have to find them, open them, and I can use them, but when I save and close the map, only the ones I used stay there. Then I have to go hunt them all down again. (This is important, because for some maps (those where I am modeling a 2 x 2 or 3 x 5 km area,) I like to use trees and sometimes building instead of green fill for forests and pink/gray for built up areas. I also like the forest polys in 85 (wwII) and they area editable, but again when I modify them to a polygon, I lose the delte capability. Less of an issue for trees then it is for polygons though.

    In other news, I think I am going to outline the contours in brown, regardless of whether or not I use the white polygon or different colors of brown methods in the map as it clearly delineates contours from trees.

    If I implement all the stuff in a way that it always comes back, it will save me a lot of time and frustration in the future.


    Once again, thanks for your help.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2020
     
    That's a lot of very disparate information, so I will answer it with brief headings so you know which bit I'm responding to.

    Overland Standard - I'm sure you could remove the embedded key if it's there on the template when you make a new map. Everything in a map is only ever lines and polygons if you think about it. You would just need to do a bit of disassembly work. All drawing tools can be edited. The important thing is that you don't go and edit the tools that are standard for the style. You get around that by clicking the New button each time you want to change something about a standard tool, and make your own version with a similar name but some identifying tag to remind you that this one is your version.

    You can delete nodes drawn with any drawing tool by hitting the DEL key. They all work the same basic way, even though they draw different kinds of lines or polygons.

    Moving symbols - as I said before you don't have to move anything, and shouldn't (or you will thoroughly mess up the entire symbol referencing system). All you need to do is open the correct symbol catalogue - the .FSC file. That is done by clicking the right hand button immediately above the catalogue pane and browsing to the right place to find it. Don't open the folder! You might see the folder, but when you see the folder you need to also look for a file with a similar name with an FSC extension. That is what you need to open. Doing this will open the catalogue within your map, no matter that the map is one style and the catalogue is from another style.

    If you outline the contours might I suggest using as thin a line as possible? Zero line width. There is already a slight colour difference. The line is only to accentuate the separation. The two things work together. Neither needs to be particularly strong when both are used.

    I think I covered everything? :)
  3.  
    Hmmm.

    Actually it is SS3 Overland Pro metric/standard. The legend is on the mapboarder and does not appear to be clickable.

    Delete nodes. You can delete the nodes selected with the drawing tools (on the left side of the screen), but those on the right are immune to the technique. Bothersome.

    Moving Symbols. Yeah, I got that. I would never try to move them. By "move" I really mean "make easily available to me in my map". So, I can find them and load them and use them after I get them there, but I would like the to "stay" there after I move them. Unless I use a particular symbol, I have to go through the whole process again the next time I open the map.

    Outline. I can barely see the contour when it is 0 width while I am drawing it. It frequently gets lost in the background of the real map I am using. So I usually make it 0.1 or 0.05 or so, which I can see. I can't see the contours outer edge at all on the CF map, especially through the trees and on the whiter parts of the drawing.

    New Stuff:

    Today I tried the black glow effect on my Heavy Duty roads. The first three times, the black didn't look like they did on Fred and they were huge. The fourth try (I was flipping back and forth between the Fred map and my map) and I finally got it to work by making the blur size and range each 0.01 units. Nifty. My plan, such as plans are (they never survive first contact with the enemy) is to apply the effect to each road sheet in order to make sure things are lining up. If I put them all on the same layer, they will all look like they aren't any overpasses or underpasses. If keep them in layers, one that are on top will look like they have a bridge over the ones on the bottom.

    It occurs to me I should do the same thing to the rivers/streams, only with blue of some sort.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2020
     
    Delete nodes doesn't work in certain places? I'm sure that's not right. It could be some kind of a Technical Support issue there.

    Moving symbols - LOL! You have no idea what you trigger in the very slightly OCD part of me that neatly ties certain terminology to the phrase "bad thing to do" in my head! LOL! If you open a catalogue from one style in a map of a different style and its like that when you save and close down for the day it should stay put. Even if it doesn't, providing you have already clicked each of the symbols in the visiting catalogue file they should appear in your used symbols tray. Not immediately easy to find, but it's the toggle switch with the green icon on the top left of the catalogue panel. Click to see what symbols you've already collected there, and then click to go back to the normal catalogue panel. You might be surprised just how many symbols you have collected along the way. I always am.

    The underpass/overpass situation is a tricky one. I'm not sure the glow effect will really work for you, but you can try it and see if there's a way around it.
  4.  
    Oh, I understand about "moving". It causes me problems sometimes. I this game we play, there are troops, police, and guerillas (or insurgents). In my way of thinking, they are all "troops" but because the rules distinguish between what they can do. So my opponent has to constantly correct me when I do something wrong. To me, when I say I want to "move" the symbols to another location, I don't mean drag the files over or copy and paste them to move them, I mean "somehow place them in a position where they are easily findable for me."

    And my wife and I do not have the same vocabulary, even after 43 years of marriage. In fact, I think it is getting worse. But she is Norwegian. Her name is Torill. Feminine diminutive of Tor. Thunder. LIghting. Big Hammer when she gets mad at me.

    The upper left green icon indeed does what you said. Dang. But I still have to add them when I make a map from scratch. Same with my "contour" drawing tools, right?

    I experimented a little with moving things to the same layer. I don't like the effect when all the roads open up a different class road, so I am leaving them on different sheets (notice that?). That way the Autobahn is always passing over the lesser roads. Now, of course, that is not how they all are in real life. Sometimes the lesser road builds an overpass over the Autobahn, but its more frequently an underpass. (I made a specialty as a platoon leader and company commander of seizing places like that in exercises. Sometimes we could have just crossed the Autobahn in our tanks, bus the Polezi and my commander would probably become a bit perturbed with me. Thus being able to seize those places made for other successes.) I don't really want to add all the bridge symbols on that map. I admire the dedication and precision of those map makers.

    I am making forward progress on finishing the map. Other things are languishing. Like the rest of the game. But the map is about 1/4 of the battle.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2020
     
    I'm not sure if the drawing tools that are added to symbol catalogues work the same way with the green button. I've never thought to look because it really isn't that hard to make a new one for yourself. I hope that those instructions have opened up that avenue for you now.

    LOL! sheets not layers!

    It's good to know that you are moving forward.

    Take care of yourself and your wife - all your family :)
  5.  
    A lot of work completed proofing the map for Covering Force. The view is shown without the Forest Cover. I have simplified the road and stream networks, added 0 width lines along the contour boundaries, added a few details such as the Location of OP Alpha, the nearest East German Border Tower to the OP, the small monument to the family that was killed trying to escape East Germany, and the small castle we loved to visit. Fulda and our barracks and the town we lived in are off the map to the left, so are not shown.

    Next step is to add names for the rivers, roads, and towns and probably to simplify the road network some more. I am contemplating turning the gray roads white. I had used the Glow method on the roads, but the black lines aren't visible on the map when printed, so I took that effect out. Getting there.
      CF MAP Central 20200506.JPG
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    Looks good :)

    Just 2 things - I think the grey roads would look too important if they were glaringly white, and the glow can be adjusted in width if it isn't visible on the printout. That just means its too small to be seen.
  6.  
    Thanks Sue. Probably true about the grey roads. I have to think about the glow. It seemed to slow and crash the program when I tried to print the map to CutePDF. The funny thing is the compter rendered the map even though the CC3 crashed, and opened CutePDF when it was finished!

    Also thinking of changing the towns to some fill or a darker color as they are sort of hard to see.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    Maybe not quite so much antialiasing? How much are you using? 20% is usually about enough for most purposes.

    I've just noticed that there seems to be a contour that hasn't been filled on the left there. You can see a line, but no colour difference either side of it.
  7.  
    I'm using whatever the default is for antialiasing.

    I think what you think is a contour is a city/town. They are pale pink (to my eye) and can be difficult to tell from terrain. I am thinking about filling them with a symbol fill or a Brush Pattern using Boxes or Large Targets. Problem with the symbols is you have to use all the ones in a set or only one. And it doesn't like odd shaped polygons. I'll have to play with it a bit.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    No. It's the long wiggly brown line that I've roughly highlighted in bright green here.
      Contour.jpg
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    As I remember it the default is something amazingly high, like 67% or something. You only really need 20%, which will cut down a lot of the strain of exporting and may prevent CC3 from crashing like that.
  8.  
    Oh, that's the Inner German or Interzonal Border. The Border is generally in front of the border fence. They supposedly took all the mines out between the border and the fence, but there were mines on the fence and in some of the border markings. It is very exciting to think you might be in a minefield if your navigation was a little off and the border markers were covered with snow or grass. Not saying I ever did that, you understand, but it could be interesting. Especially at night before we had night vision or thermal goggles.
  9.  
    Nope. Not the interzonal Border
  10.  
    Ah. Two contour levels with the same color. I would have never seen that. Thanks.
  11.  
    Hm. It seems it doesn't want to get outlined in the correct color. The level is supposed to be 42 and I'm trying to set the edge to 38...
  12.  
    For anti-aliasing, I can't seem to find the key to do it. I found what to do in the Tome and the CC3 manual, but am apparently not smart enough to find the right button or menu.
    •  
      CommentAuthorMonsen
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    The Options button in the save as dialog, AFTER picking the type to save as.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020 edited
     
    Not seeing it Monsen.
      Save As.JPG
    •  
      CommentAuthorMonsen
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    As I said, AFTER picking the type to save as. The options are context-sensitive, so right now you are looking at the options for fcw files, not image files.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020 edited
     
    OK. I saved it as a FCW. When I select Bitmap, I get the options. My screen shot comes from using the Microsoft Snipping Tool, not by doing a Save As and then changing the picture to another type of image file. I've never tried that.

    And when I print the map out, I print it to the CutePDF, not as an image file.

    Does that setting then also affect the way the file prints out to CutePDF?
    •  
      CommentAuthorMonsen
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    If you don't use the save as image feature in CC3+, then the antialiasing setting doesn't apply.
  13.  
    OK. Thanks. Sometimes it is hard for knowledge to penetrate the front slope of my brain. My wife says my skull is made of depleted uranium. :)
  14.  
    I must be stupid. I cannot get my 400m contour level to display a different outer color. I selected all the polygons, changed them from color 41 to 42. Executed and saw the change.
    Checked all my sheets to make sure they are going from 39 (lowest contour) to 47 (highest contour). CHeck.
    Changed the current color to 38 and 0 width.
    Hid all sheets except the guilty one which doesn't want to display an outline.
    Right clicked the Outer Color Button and selected "Current Color"
    Drag selected all the polygons on the displayed sheet.
    Right Clicked and selected "DO IT"
    Screen blinked, nothing changed.
    Zoomed in/out, nothing changed.
    Selected the Change Properties Button (allowing me to select all the entities).
    Drag selected all the polygons and changed the color to green.
    Right clicked, DO IT, changed to Green.
    Selected the Outline in Black.
    Drag selected all the Polygons, right clicked, selected DO IT.
    Screen flashed, nothing changed.
    Changed all the Polygons back to color 42.
    Then I made a new sheet.
    Selected all the entities on the old sheet 400.
    Changed the sheet from Contours 400mF to Contours 400mF NEW
    Hit OK.
    Contours moved to new sheet.
    repeated the above.
    Moved the damn entities back to the orginal sheet
    deleted the NEW sheet.
    Closed the program.

    Reopened the program. Map loaded. No change.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    I don't understand what you are trying to do, Mike :(
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020 edited
     
    What you noticed was I had two sheets with the same color.
    For whatever reason, one sheet did not accept the outer color, as can be seen here. This is the 400m line.
    I tried to give it a edge color, or whatever it is called, like the others.
    It doesn't want to play.
    the next one has sheets 300, 400, and 500 on it. The 300 and 500 lines, as well as all the others have that outer color.

    I am trying to get an outer color on the 400m line. I tried all that stuff above to see if I could trick the machine into doing my bidding.

    Thus far, no luck.

    Clearly the program is smarter than I am and I am losing my ability to communicate clearly as well.

    There is almost certainly some fundamental thing I am doing wrong with this sheet.

    And now I apparently am not allowed to upload an FCW.
      400mF sheet.JPG
      300_400_500m lines.JPG
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    Use Info->List to find out if it is a polygon or just a path that hasn't been converted. If it's a path that would explain why it won't do what you want it to do.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020 edited
     
    Well, the program claims there are as many as 19 entities stacked up. It also says they are a smooth polygon with 2225 nodes.

    They all have the same number of nodes but some have different colors.

    if these weren't polygons, they wouldn't be filled, right?

    However, it would explain much.

    When I go back to the 20200429d map, there is only one entity in on the sheet. Well, there are a lot of them, but apparently only one in each place.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020
     
    I really think your best bet is to do that one again, rather than trying to untangle whatever is going on there.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 6th 2020 edited
     
    So, with that revelation, I saved my 0506 map as 0506a and deleted the 400m contour sheet.

    Then I went to my 0429d APR map, hid everything but the 400m contour sheet, right clicked on "COPY" button and selected "Copy to Clipboard", draq selected the whole thing, input 0,0 as the reference position.
    Switched to 0506a, right clicked on the "COPY" button and selected the "PASTE" option, input 0,0 as the reference location/origin and watched in wonderment as the sheet appeared.
    Saved the map.
    Right clicked on the "OUTLINE" button, selected "Outline in Current Color", drag selected the whole sheet, clicked do it, and the outer edge is there in the correct shade.

    This of course does not tell me how I got 19 copies of every entity on the 0506 map, except unwittingly perhaps copies just kept stacking up as I tried to get the edge to turn on.

    At any rate,success.

    Interestingly enough, the file size for 0506 is 2777KB and 0506a is 1803 which could also perhaps maybe explain why it was sometimes slow to draw and crashed when I printed to CutePDF.

    But maybe not.

    Sometimes, the frontal slope does get penetrated by ego-piercing discarding sabot, no matter how thick the armor is.

    Thanks Sue. I would not have thought to do LIST, nor would I have known about how to use COPY to move stuff to a different workbook/location without your help.

    I've been up since 0400 Eastern Time. Time for a nap and a beer. Not necessarily in that order. Then tonight, Terraforming Mars.

    Sue pointed out that I made the same mistake again by not changing the color. I can't see that error unless she points it out to me. At any rate, I think it is fixed now.
      Once More2.JPG
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2020 edited
     
    After sending off various color schemes for elevation to a group of testers, I've come to the conclusion I will be sticking with the darker is higher convention of most, if not all, wargames. It is simply to confusing to most to try to see light shades as higher, although I recognize that seems to be the way of most maps. As for me, I confess to a lot of confusion when I look at it, as it somewhat difficult for me to unsee the other version, but my perspective shifts constantly.

    I also decided to do the first two layers, <200m and the 200m contours in the pale green shades of 95 and 94 from the standard palette and then start the 300m contour at the 46 color of brown, which is the next to lightest level. I think this provides an improved picture of higher level terrain without the difficulty of resolving the very dark browns from one another that look almost black to me. I also need to add the outlines back into the contours.

    I also tried skipping shades between contours 47 - 45 - 43 - 41 etc, but found it a little jarring.

    Next I have to remember how to bring the Bitmap fills from the WWII annual in order to use the pine/deciduous fills which have a pleasing effect on the map.
      New color scheme.JPG
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2020
     
    Proving the power of convention, and also that convention can vary from group to group depending on each group's particular history. It would be interesting to know if any UK wargame enthusiasts have the same view of topography, since UK topography maps are generally dark to light up the scale.

    I once heard a story in a class about GUI design many years ago when MS was very young. They started with the little red cross to close a window in the top right corner. Some designer decided that it would be more convenient in the top left corner, but when Windows was updated that way around hundreds of people complained most strongly because it wasn't where they were used to it being. And so, whether it is the best place or not, the little red cross to close the window is stuck forevermore in the top right corner of nearly every window you will ever see. This little story was told to impress on all us budding GUI designers how important it was to consult the users before setting anything in concrete as far as redesigning the GUI, so you did right to consult them.

    Whichever way up the colour scheme is (and I have to admit that I find it very confusing because it now seems to be the wrong way up to me), it looks like you have found a nice way to present the map. It will be interesting to see how all the roads and settlements look on it too, after you've added the contour lines.
  15.  
    Thanks Sue.

    On the last project I worked on, the engineers changed the positions of the yes/no buttons from yes on the left to no on the left. This messed us all up because we were used to yes being on the left. Their reason was it was because that's how smart phones did it because people used their thumbs and it was easier. Of course, they didn't check with anybody. We pointed out that we read from left to right and generations are used to the yes button on the left. I took this all the way up to the Lead Engineer who elected to side with his engineers. Of course, when it went to the customer there was mass confusion. And worse, they didn't get all of the stupid buttons all changed, so sometimes it was on the left and sometimes on the right.

    That was one of the reasons I retired a year early, about a year ago. 2nd best decision I ever made. The best is paying some guy to cut my lawn.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2020
     
    It would appear, then, that some people still have to learn the very important lesson I was taught 30 years ago about GUI design!

    The best decision in my life was to not pursue GUI design. It would have been far too limiting for me with all the accepted norms to work around all the time. You can barely change a thing without there being a protest.

    Of course, when something is only partly implemented that is the worst situation of all.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 9th 2020 edited
     
    Photos of the map to date in its more operational environment, on the game table with some counters and dice for size relationships. The Hexes are 3km from side to side, about 4 cm, and the game pieces are 1/2in. Sorry for the mixed units.

    I think the map looks better in the photos than it does on the monitor or even when I printed it out and looked at them sheet by sheet.

    I tried to load the Bitmap FIlls from the WWII Area Maps to change the forest green to the deciduous and pine fills, but they came out much difference in appearance, so I I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong. They were just a blob with none of the texture. Nor have I enabled the contour levels with an outline. I am getting closer.
      IMG_0112.JPG
      IMG_0113.JPG
    •  
      CommentAuthorQuenten
    • CommentTimeMay 9th 2020
     
    Magnificent
  16.  
    Wow! That is high praise. Thanks, Quenten.
    • CommentAuthorLoopysue
    • CommentTimeMay 9th 2020 edited
     
    My goodness! That does look nice :)

    The brown in CC3 seems to come out really red on the print out, which is no bad thing. I prefer it that colour.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 9th 2020 edited
     
    Thanks, Sue. The inner and outer zones of cities are Pinkish/Red and they tend to get lost. I'm thinking of either outlining them, or filling them with Brush Patterns. Large Targets for the City Center, and Boxes for the outer regions. Industrial areas are gray, but they obscure the roads sometimes and can look like terrain. Perhaps I will cross hatch them.

    Edit: I continually evaluate the road and stream networks with a view to simplifying them and/or removing ones that don't have an effect. Looking at the big picture view the top photo gives me, I have added simplifying the forests. I probably don't need all the tiny little forests in the hexes. So now I have something else to think about.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020
     
    I'm not working so much on the map right now as I am on rating the combat power of units. Having said that, I read all this stuff here on the forum about simplify, Explode/Defractilize(?), Remove Nodes, and number nodes, so I tried simplify on my roads and was horrified to watch them change shape and even shorten their length and disconnect from their other connections on the road network. I had gone beyond the undo limit, so I just reopened the original file.

    Then I checked the number of nodes in one of my contours line. It was the last one at the 300 meter level and crawls over most of the map and it has 4984 nodes. While I never checked this before this map, I'm sure I have other maps with contour levels with the same or more nodes in it. The second biggest has 2494, and the third 2377, and 2255 and they are much smaller than the big one. After those four, they tend to get smaller; there's one with 1511 and one with 1212.

    I am little worried about applying those commands to these things since I fear it will really change the look of the terrain.

    I suppose this could cause the occasional crash when I am drawing contours or sending the map to CutePDF to print. I usually don't have a lot of effects turned on except for transparency.

    I still have two big tasks remaining. Labeling various features and doing my mobility sheet which gives the player a visual cue to the trafficability of a hex.

    So, for the experts, should I or shouldn't I give those simplifying features a whirl?

    Thanks!
    •  
      CommentAuthorMonsen
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020 edited
     
    When using simplify, make sure to use an appropriate simplification distance. All nodes that are closer than the specified distance will be removed, so if you set it to 10 in an imperial overland map where a map units equal one mile, you'll basically remove all nodes closer to each other than 10 miles. A smaller simplification distance removes fewer nodes, but also preserves the shapes to a higher degree. Obviously, it is impossible to remove nodes without distorting the shapes, the main idea is to remove nodes that provides an unnecessary high level of detail, or you just have too many close nodes you don't need.

    I probably wouldn't have bother with it unless the drawing is slow and/or troublesome to work with. 5000 nodes isn't really that troublesome unless you plan on joining the path with another path or do node editing on it.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020
     
    The contour lines are all polygons. I haven't checked roads or streams. So its an overland map in 1 km, so if were to do it, something like 0.2 might be more appropriate than 1? I know I get into the weeds when I follow these things, so I probably click more than required, but then, I really like the way the contours look. So there I am...

    Thanks.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020
     
    Now another question. My rivers are 0.3 width and dark blue. There is a light blue line running down them. I have turned this off before, but I am apparently not using the right term to search for the way to do so. Help me, please.
    •  
      CommentAuthorMonsen
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020
     
    You probably have frames on. You can toggle this with Ctrl+F.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 12th 2020
     
    That's It! Thanks again for helping me out with such a simple thing.
    • CommentAuthormike robel
    • CommentTimeMay 15th 2020
     
    I am looking for where this symbols comes from. I have found the maps I used that use it, but I cannot find where it comes from. Searching for Bridge does not turn it up.

    Can someone give me a hint?

    Thanks.
      SYMBOL.JPG